Gandagana of the Black Sea Coast:
Fish in Georgian Cuisine
Keti Kvichidze
Ajara is a coastal region of Georgia, where the Black Sea is not just a geographical feature, but the foundation of daily life, the economy, and the region’s culinary identity. For centuries, Batumi, as a port city, has brought together trade and diverse ethnic communities, products, and flavours. It is precisely within this diversity that the local fish cuisine developed, always vibrant, practical, and naturally integrated into Ajara’s culinary traditions. Batumi’s fish market is especially remarkable, and it still retains its authenticity today. Black Sea fish - red mullet, flathead grey mullet, bluefish, European flounder, shi drum, and of course, European anchovy - are all sold here in large baskets. Imported fish are also available, but most visitors to Batumi choose red mullet, which is grilled on the spot in nearby taverns and served with hazelnut sauce and mchadi (cornbread).
In Ajara, fish has never been a main course. It was more a means of survival and a seasonal food. Black Sea fish- European anchovy, mackerel, flathead grey mullet, and red mullet- have shaped the eating habits of the Black Sea coastal communities for centuries. Here, fish was prepared in simple ways, either fried, boiled, smoked, or dried. Fish was especially popular among the Laz* people, who for centuries were engaged in boat building and fishing. European anchovy is featured prominently in Laz daily cuisine. It is fried on a ketsi (clay pan), marinated, or boiled. Typical dishes include anchovy mchadi (cornbread), kapshia taghanai (a Laz anchovy dish served with pkhali*), anchovy dolma with rice, and more.
*Gandagana is a traditional dance from Georgia’s Black Sea coast, known for its lively rhythm and coastal character.
*The Laz are an indigenous ethnic group from the southeastern Black Sea coast.
Historically, fish played a smaller role in Georgian cuisine, because of the mountainous regions and the well-developed cereal crops. Along the coast, particularly in Ajara and Guria, fish continued to be an important part of daily cuisine. Two years ago, while working with ethnographers to research traditional recipes, 100 fish recipes were uncovered, and later published in a book.
Today, as Georgian gastronomy explores new directions, fish has become a key ingredient: light, seasonal, and perfectly aligned with contemporary culinary trends. This is where its true potential shines, both locally and on the international stage.
In modern Ajara, fish cuisine is entering a new phase. In Batumi, restaurants are emerging where chefs prepare local fish using contemporary techniques. Today, fish is no longer just an everyday food and should become an integral part of the region’s culinary narrative, a tool for regional branding, and an important element of the tourist experience.
Fish Cuisine and Gastro Batumi
“The third international gastronomic forum, Gastro Batumi, focused on fish -based cuisine. Traditionally held in the capital of Ajara, it brought together renowned chefs and gastronomy experts from around the world. The forum clearly highlighted the importance of Black Sea fish, showing that it is not simply a local resource, but a rich culinary tradition with real international potential.
The idea behind Gastro Batumi was initiated by the Department of Tourism and Resorts of Ajara. The organisational side of the project is handled by the Gastronomic & Rural Tourism Association, led by gastronomic adviser Keti Kvivichidze and chef Daduna Ghlonti,” said Tamar Kaikatsishvili, First Deputy Chair of the Department of Tourism and Resorts of Ajara.
At the third gastronomic forum, guests were, as tradition holds, invited from several countries. Among them was Arnaud Vanhamme/MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), heir to the Vanhamme family business and owner of Vanhamme fishmongers in Paris. His shops supply fish to Michelin-starred restaurants, the Palace of Versailles, as well as high-profile gala dinners.
Arnaud Vanhamme, who holds the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman of France) title, visited Georgia for the first time as part of Gastro Batumi and shared his experience with local chefs. He noted that “Ajara’s fish is a pure product, with a clear story. Black Sea fish stands out for its interesting texture and simplicity, which allows the chef to create strong flavours with minimal intervention.”
Among the special guests at the gastronomic forum was Julien Hennote, head chef of the Michelin‑starred restaurant Pourquoi Pas at the Hôtel Castelbrac in Dinard. For him, Ajara proved to be a great example of how a region can use its own resources intelligently in contemporary gastronomy. In his view, the fish culture in Ajara is very much alive and not locked away in a museum, which gives it great potential for development.
Stefane Jakic, chef-instructor at Ferrandi Paris, visited Georgia for the third time. During the gastronomic forum, he focused on the collaboration between fishermen and chefs and noted that Ajara has the unique opportunity to create a model where local fish becomes a central element of the region’s culinary identity.
Speakers at the forum included Ekaterine Vanidze, a restaurateur with experience working as a food and beverage manager in Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as chefs Guram Baghdoshvili and Irakli Todadze.
Dinner in Six Hands with Black Sea Produce
The third Gastro Batumi concluded with a six‑hands dinner.
Portuguese chef Vasco Coelho Santos, recognised with two knives in a professional chef rating system and owner of nine seafood‑focused restaurants in Porto (including one Michelin star at Euskalduna Studio, which made The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2024), created exciting dishes alongside Georgian chefs Irakli Kamadadze and Tornike Putkaradze:
Arroz de Marisco - a lobster and rice dish inspired by the Portuguese national dish of the same name was prepared for the event.
The second dish was presented by Irakli Kamadadze and we called it Laz Symphony: Black Sea trout wrapped in kezhera pkhali*, with walnut mousse, kapshia chkidi* croquettes, pomegranate caviar, and tarragon Kaymak sauce.
The third dish was created by Tornike Putkaradze, inspired by the traditional Laz dish, kapshia taghanai*: kapshia taghanai gratin, seabass poached in butter, served with smoked horseradish sauce.
The main course was prepared by Vasco Coelho Santos and we called it Fish Gandagana: a synthesis of flounder and feijoa, served with Basque pil-pil sauce.
The forum once again confirmed that Ajara’s fish culture is a meeting point of history, nature, and modernity. It is a resource that, if showcased correctly, can become an important part of not only the region’s, but also of the country’s gastronomic future.
*Kezhera Pkhali - a traditional Georgian vegetable dish made with minced German turnip.
*Kapshia Chkidi - a traditional Laz dish made from anchovies cooked with cornmeal.
*Kapshia Taghanai - baked Black Sea salmon and garfish with beet leaves, leeks, and kezhera pkhali.
