How to Break the Rules with Elegance
Unconventional Rosé and Food Pairings That Are Sure to Become a Habit
Tazo Tamazashvili
It’s true that when discussing rosé wines, the first associations tend to be those of summer, sunshine, and a light, celebratory mood. Over the past 25 years, this category has evolved remarkably, and both professionals and enthusiasts now recognise rosé wines as far more fascinating, layered, and diverse than their long-held reputation suggests.
This is a wine that combines the lightness of a white wine with the structure of a red. Its charm lies precisely in that balance. Achieving it requires technology, time, and the winemaker’s intuition- a wine in which even a few hours in its crafting can make all the difference.
In Georgia, the tradition of making rosé wines doesn’t stretch back as many centuries as it does for amber or red wines. Yet the country has a remarkable diversity of endemic red and pink-berried varieties ideally suited for rosé production. Among the pink-berried grapes, one of the most distinctive is Chkhaveri, whose potential and versatility I have often talked about.
Rosé wines are predominantly made from red-berried grape varieties. What sets them apart is the method of production. The classic approach involves a brief maceration. In Georgia, longer maceration is used for various styles, but in the case of rosé, it’s measured in hours, ranging from two to sixteen or more. This determines the spectrum of rosé colours: salmon, onion-skin, deep pink, and beyond.
Today, Provençal rosés are enjoying a growing trend worldwide. Georgia can also produce these pale, translucent rosés, often with a white-pink hue. However, a country with such outstanding soils, climate, grape varieties, and winemaking culture is capable of crafting its own rosés that are just as interesting and diverse, while also sharing them with the world. It is precisely these wines that secure our presence on the international stage.
Under both European and Georgian law, blending white and red grape varieties in specific proportions is not prohibited, allowing winemakers greater freedom, choice, and diversity. This approach is often favoured by producers of more natural wines, either as a cuvée or an assemblage. I support both methods, as long as the resulting wine reflects the winemaker’s vision and demonstrates how they have achieved an interesting result from a particular terroir.
Rosé is a category in which the winemaker can carry out
their most creative experiments.
The growing popularity of rosé wines comes from their versatility - they can be enjoyed anywhere, at any time, for example, at breakfast, a sparkling or lightly textured rosé. Since the ascent of this category began in the 2000s, both wine professionals and enthusiasts have realised that rosé is not just a “fun” wine for hot days, but a true gastronomic wine. This shift has led certain wineries to focus their development specifically on rosé.
Diversity is one of the defining characteristics of rosé wines. When tasting them, you can detect notes of fruit, citrus, minerality, and more. Rosés with pronounced mineral notes are often found in cool-climate regions, such as Austria. Incidentally, the country’s wines, red, white, and rosé alike, are currently enjoying a rising trend, with climate being a key factor in their success. Mineral notes can also be found in our own rosés. For example, with Ivane Nareklishvili’s traditional method, rosé made from Rkatsiteli has a finish that reveals a pleasantly mineral character.
It is worth highlighting natural rosé wines, made by “maverick winemakers,” and, of course, pet-nats. Indeed, rosés are the most liberated of wines, and I have always been an advocate for freedom in wine.
What draws us to rosé wines,
including sparkling ones?
First and foremost, it’s the beautiful colour. When you see rosé in a clear bottle, it’s hard to look away. The colour draws you in, followed by the delightful fizz of a wine chilled to the perfect temperature. This, in turn, is accompanied by notes of strawberry, raspberry, and other berries. Then come the mineral notes, and if you can detect the nuances of ageing as well, that is a whole other delight.
Alongside other regions of Georgia, Kakheti stands out as one of the most interesting areas for producing sparkling rosé wines. You might think that, given its hot climate, producing this style here would be pointless. But consider southern France, Rioja, or Catalonia - which of these is known for a cool climate? Provence, in fact, is much hotter than Kakheti, yet excellent sparkling wines are produced there. The key is a carefully timed harvest, the right grape variety, and precise winemaking techniques. The same applies to Georgia’s other regions as well.
Pairing Rosé Wines with Food
Rosé wines pair beautifully with dishes that offer richness, varied textures, and vibrant flavours. At Bazzar Hotel’s kitchen, we prepare precisely this kind of cuisine, designed to complement Georgian rosé wines.
Rosé for Breakfast
Avocado toast.
This breakfast is healthy, light, and at the same time flavourful: the avocado brings a delicate richness, while the egg in the salad garnish adds delicacy and a subtle roundness. Such a breakfast calls for a wine that can lighten the dish without being lost in the pairing. Kaha Chotiashvili’s family winery Montepulciano Rosé has the acidity to cut through the richness of the avocado and the onion notes in the purée. Its fruit and berry aromas complement the breakfast beautifully, leaving a pleasant, lingering finish.
Steak Salad and Rosé
The combination of a steak salad with rosé might seem challenging at first, given the mix of meat, greens, and various spices. But it’s actually quite straightforward. A steak prepared this way calls for a more intense, structured rosé, while the vegetables and spices require acidity and lightness from the wine. This is exactly what Kobidzeebis Marani’s Chkhaveri delivers - a relatively dark rosé, perfectly balanced and velvety, with aromas of red currant, gooseberry, rose water, and rose petals, complemented by lightly tarragon-like tannins.
This wine pairs particularly well with this type of dish, as it can handle both the meat and the other components of the salad, including onion and garlic. Chkhaveri’s medium body is sufficient for the steak, while its acidity harmonises with the salad dressing, enhancing the overall experience.
Classic Burger
and Rosé Crafted
by the Traditional Method
The burger, the “true king” of street food, can be found in the gastronomy of any country, and it stands out everywhere. There are countless styles and variations, including innovative takes. It’s a dish that knows no limits or borders. We can even create a Georgian version - replacing cheddar with dambalkhacho* cheese, or the patty with abkhazura*. Examples like this already exist in Georgia, thanks to young chefs who have embraced bold combinations. And really, why not?
But let’s focus on the classic burger this time. This is where something special is needed. Red wine would certainly overpower the burger with its intensity, while white wine would be lost against the burger's sauces and garnish. In this case, rosé is the perfect choice.
A perfect example is the Vardisperi Rkatsiteli rosé, crafted in qvevri with extended skin contact by Ivane Nareklishvili. Its lively acidity, fruit aromas, and subtle smoky and earthy notes create a wine that balances the dish well. This modern, slightly unexpected, and, in my view, very intriguing combination is a true flavour firework - one that could easily become a habit.
* Dambalkhacho: A pungent Georgian cheese with a semi-soft texture and spicy, intense flavour.
* Abkhazura: Traditional Georgian meatballs of spiced pork and beef, wrapped in caul fat and fried, typically served with Tkemali (plum) sauce, raw onion, and pomegranate seeds.
