Two cultures, two traditions, and a grape variety that yields a wine now recognised as a PDO
In Kvemo Kartli, in the Tetritskaro municipality, on the right bank of the Asuretistskhevi River, lies Asureti - a village shaped by a fascinating blend of Georgian and German cultures. This village and the local winemakers have much to offer wine lovers.
A deep-rooted reverence for wine has long been embedded in the people of Asureti, grounded in traditions and heritage that stretch back centuries. Despite its long history, this village in Kvemo Kartli is now rewriting its winemaking story, while forward-looking wine-growers craft distinctive Asuretian wines of real character.
The Georgian-German Winemaking Heritage of Asureti
In 1817–1819, Swabian colonists from southern Germany (Württemberg and Baden) were resettled in Georgia, including the family of Otto Schall. The Germans established eight colonies in the country. In one of these settlements, Elisabethtal (present-day Asureti), an exceptional marani (traditional winery and cellar) was built. The building stood in the middle of the vineyards, constructed from grey and white dressed stone, with arched windows and two large entrances, one upper and one lower. The first floor was entirely underground, while the second was above ground. The structure covered an area of half a hectare. On the upper floor were 10-ton cement and 5-ton wooden grape presses.
Grapes were pressed both by hand and using electric motors. With the help of the machinery, and sometimes gravity alone, the wine flowed into barrels located on the first floor. In cases where a barrel cracked or wine leaked, to avoid any loss, it was channelled through grooves beneath the barrels into a special basin, from which it was then used to produce chacha (a traditional Georgian grape pomace spirit). The resourceful Germans, as a result, did not waste a single drop of wine. On the first floor of the marani, oak and pine barrels with capacities ranging from 5 to 1,000 litres were arranged in three rows, stacked one above the other.
In 1934–1935, the Germans built a greenhouse near the winery, where they developed vine varieties resistant to disease. It was here that the extinct Shala grape variety (Asuretuli Shavi) was revived. Otto Schall had originally discovered it on the site of an abandoned Georgian village, Samchveti, and it was here that its new history began, later continuing in the vineyards of Asureti. Locals referred to this variety as Shalis Kurdzeni (Schall’s grape) and Shalis Shavi (Schall’s Black). German clergy in Asureti also produced zedashe (communion wine) from Asuretuli Shala wine.
In 1941, the Communist authorities deported the local Germans to Central Asia, and in their place, part of the population from Racha was resettled in the village. This ended the story of Elisabethtal, as it was known then. Yet it remains alive today in the village’s surviving old buildings and traditions, which the people of Asureti continue to cherish with particular care.
Asuretuli Shala
Protected Designation of Origin
The Asuretuli Shala microzone is situated in Asureti, Tetritskaro municipality, on the left bank of the Algeti River. It encompasses the farmland around the village. The vineyards are mainly planted on clay soils, distinguished by a granular structure which, together with the mesoclimate, creates highly favourable conditions for viticulture. This imparts the wine with a rich flavour and complexity, body, balance of sweetness and acidity, roundness, and a well-integrated tannic structure.
The local climate is characterised by moderately cold winters and long, warm summers. The average annual air temperature is 15°C. In the warmest month (August), average temperatures range from 20°C to 24°C, while in the coldest month (January) they range from -0.7°C to -3°C. The sum of active temperatures amounts to 3,069°C. Average annual precipitation ranges from 450 to 500 mm. The peak in rainfall occurs in May, while the lowest levels are recorded in December.
Asuretuli Shala wine is produced exclusively from Asuretuli Shavi grapes grown within the Asuretuli Shala microzone. The addition of Tavkveri and Shavkapito is also permitted (15%).
Asuretuli Shala is a dry red wine, ranging in colour from light ruby to deep ruby. It is a concentrated, refined wine with lively acidity and notes of blackberry and blackcurrant. With ageing, it develops pronounced spice aromas (black pepper, clove) and dried fruit notes (prune).
Advantages of Asureti
The region has several key advantages. The first is its climate, which is particularly well-suited to grape growing and supports sustainable, organic viticulture. The second is the unique local grape variety, Asuretuli Shavi, which is ideally adapted to the local environment. The third, and perhaps most important, is the collective effort of the winemakers.
Today, several wineries operate in Asureti. The winemakers are members of the Kvemo Kartli Wine Union and work together to promote both the village and the wider region, as well as Asuretuli Shala and other local wines. This is a clear example of how the collective effort can drive a wine region forward. Asureti’s unique landscape, history, architecture, and vineyards, many of which are several decades old and are ideally suited to producing interesting, concentrated wines, along with its proximity to the capital (approximately one hour from Tbilisi), create excellent opportunities for the development of wine tourism. As a result, Asureti continues to attract both local and international visitors.
Local winemakers are well aware that working together makes it easier to achieve meaningful results.
A Visit to the Homeland of Asuretuli Shala
At the end of spring, we visited Asureti as part of the new issue of Homeland of Wine, together with our contributors - Master of Oenology, Giorgi Samanishvili, Georgia’s Best Sommelier and wine expert, Tazo Tamazashvili, and guest Oenologist and wine expert, Misha Meskhi. Our hosts were the founders of the Kvemo Kartli Wine Union: Guram Avkopashvili (Brother’s Cellar), Aleksandre Chichinadze (Winery Chigo), along with local winemakers.
Burdila’s Marani
We first visited Teimuraz Burdiladze at Burdila’s Marani, where his vineyards are planted on the slopes around his home in small plots typical of Asureti. ‘Here, vineyards are generally small,’ the winemaker explains, ‘so I have planted different varieties across several plots. The oldest is a Rkatsiteli vineyard, which I have revived and tend to with care. The wine turns out well, and given the local soils and climate, the aromatic profile of Rkatsiteli is far more expressive here, with a distinct flavour that makes the wine stand out.’
The second vineyard is only a few minutes away, reached by following a wide path just behind the house. This layout of the vineyards adds a particular charm to any visit. From the veranda above the winery, adjoining the tasting space, panoramic views of Asureti open out.
‘At this stage, I have seven grape varieties planted in the vineyards. Some are Georgian, including Asuretuli Shavi, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, and Borchalo, while others are international, such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot. I mostly make my wines in the classic style. However, as winemaking in Asureti was traditionally barrel-based under German influence, I plan to adopt this approach in the coming years so that this connection is not lost.’
At Burdila’s Marani, we tasted several red wines, including Asuretuli Shala, Saperavi, and Borchalo (the latter is a rare Georgian variety). Asuretuli Shala deserves a special mention - a garnet-coloured wine made with the classic method, with aromas of blackcurrant and black plum, and a balanced, harmonious palate.
Tsitlauri’s Marani
We then visited the small family winery of Zurab Tsitlauri. The Asuretuli Shala we tasted here proved particularly intriguing. ‘I acquired old vineyards, restored some of them, and planted others from scratch,’ the winemaker noted. ‘In our region, vineyards are rarely found on large plots. Most are planted on areas of 600 to 700 square metres. In Asureti, German winemaking technology (in oak vats and barrels) was well established, while the traditional Georgian method of winemaking in qvevri had been forgotten. To revive this tradition, I buried qvevris in the cellar a few years ago. I produce wine using both qvevri and the classic technology. Alongside Asuretuli Shavi, we also have a noteworthy Rkatsiteli in Asureti. In my vineyards, I have planted Budeshuri Tsiteli, Tavkveri, Asuretuli Shavi, Rkatsiteli, and Saperavi. My plans include expanding the vineyards and planting Asuretuli Tetri, a native white Georgian grape variety from the Kartli region. I also plan to work with international varieties, a practice that already exists in Asureti.’
Challenges and Perspectives
Giorgi Samanishvili: The creation of the Kvemo Kartli Wine Union is a positive development. Such associations give winemakers opportunities to discuss, exchange, and share knowledge and experience. Members can work on improving wine quality while maintaining healthy internal competition. This, in turn, further encourages and motivates them. The focus should be on consistent product development, stable quality, and a more coherent framework for wines overall - reducing ‘accidental’ wines while ensuring appropriate pricing. Active work is required on all of these aspects. We can already see this process taking shape in Asureti.
Despite its centuries-old history, Asureti is still considered a relatively new player in the contemporary wine scene. Producing interesting wines through a collective effort and maintaining consistent quality largely define its position and prospects on both local and international markets. Vineyard management and winemaking practices here should be more standardised to establish a coherent identity that would be memorable for consumers. What is required for the market? On the wine shelf, Asureti wines should stand out not only through the label designation ‘Asuretian wine’, but also through consistency. When a bottle is bought and opened, the same quality of wine that was previously tasted and enjoyed should be found.
Misha Meskhi: What are Asureti’s main advantages? The geographical factor: its proximity to Tbilisi, almost an hour’s drive, and you already find yourself in this rather exotic region. The beauty that immediately catches your eye upon arrival. The Georgian-German cultural tandem, both in everyday life and in winemaking. I believe this is more than enough for a single village. All of this requires a suitable presentation and the right marketing. And yet, the true charm of the place lies in the passion and determination of these winemakers, who are eager to develop and bring Asuretian wines onto a wider stage.
Last year, the first Asureti Wine Festival was held, and it is set to take place again this autumn. Such events generate interest among wine enthusiasts and professionals alike, help the development of wine tourism, and support wine sales.
Tazo Tamazashvili: My colleagues and I associate Asureti primarily with its key grape variety, Asuretuli Shavi, which is well known and yields very interesting wines. My recommendation to local producers, who are actively engaged in developing Asureti and its wines, is to plant more vineyards. Despite the limited land area, Asureti has many slopes that immediately catch the eye upon arrival. Based on soil studies and the selection of suitable grape varieties, vineyards planted on these slopes have strong potential. As for winemaking technology, the European winemaking culture has been well adapted in Asureti, a legacy of the German settlers who arrived here in the 19th century. Local winemakers would benefit from defining a clear niche and placing greater emphasis on European-style winemaking rather than the traditional methods. Both European-style and natural winemaking approaches could yield promising results in Asureti.
