Visiting wineries is a favourite activity for those who enjoy discovering new wines. It is especially appealing when set against striking landscapes, vineyards, and people beginning a new story - one that draws on the past while looking firmly to the future. One such place is Shaverdé, the Gulordava family winery, with its vineyards and cellar located in Akhmeta.

Shaverdé wines first caught our attention at a local wine festival, and later at the Decanter World Wine Awards. The Gulordava family winery- with its distinctive ‘G’ on the labels- is a relatively new player on the local wine scene. It is a producer with fairly ambitious plans. Its wines are defined by limited production and refinement, with each bottle clearly reflecting a combination of terroir, people, and their labour.

In the Gulordava family, wine is part of both tradition and everyday life. It is this long-standing experience, together with a deep respect for the vine and for wine itself, that laid the foundations for Shaverdé- a winery where each wine is made in limited quantities and with the idea that every bottle should carry a distinctly Georgian character.

The Gulordavas originally come from Samegrelo, one of Georgia’s most distinctive winemaking regions and the birthplace of Ojaleshi. Some wines are more than just a drink - they are keepers of stories. They speak of people, land, traditions, and dreams - values that endure over time.

I have often witnessed, in Samegrelo, how soft Megrelian songs would be sung in the vineyard, to the grape clusters themselves, and how the head of the family- the grandfather- would pray in the cellar, where the qvevris were buried in the ground. For our ancestors, the cellar was a place of deep secrecy, and wine was such a sacred substance that the grandfather had his own private bond with God. The Gulordava family winery carries precisely this kind of story - one shaped by ancestral labour, heritage, and a deep love of the land.

The founder of the winery is Gogi Gulordava, and this is his family’s story.

Grandfather often spoke of Kakheti. He was so keen to grow Kakhetian grape varieties in Samegrelo that he even brought cuttings on several occasions, but they never took root. But he wasn’t upset- instead, he told me that every variety needs its own land. So I fulfilled my grandfather’s dream in Kakheti- I found a vineyard site that he would have appreciated.

Just before reaching Akhmeta, if you turn right, the road leads you to Shaverde’s vineyards in the upper reaches of the Alazani River, within the Akhmeta microzone. The area is bordered to the southwest and south by the Tsiv-Gombori Range, to the west by the Kakheti Range, and to the north and northeast by the Caucasus Mountains, snow-covered even in late spring.

At the heart of the vineyards lies Shaverde’s winery and tasting space, opening onto a panoramic view of its own vines. Here, both local and international grape varieties are cultivated - Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Kisi, Khikhvi, Saperavi, Saperavi Budeshuriseburi, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Muscat Blanc.

Shaverde’s wines are overseen by young winemaker Elene Jaghmaidze, who works with each variety with particular care, aiming for the wines to reflect not only Georgia’s centuries-old winemaking tradition, but also the expectations of today’s consumer.

‘In production, I use both traditional qvevri and European techniques, which allows me to create wines that are diverse yet consistently high in quality. Certain varieties are aged in barrels, which gives the wines greater refinement,’ she says.

Since the focus of this issue of Homeland of Wine is rosé wines, we are tasting a rosé made from Budeshuriseburi Saperavi. This is a local grape variety from Kakheti, a variation of Saperavi. Unlike Saperavi, however, it has more elongated berries and ripens earlier. Budeshuriseburi Saperavi (also known as Saperavi Budeshuri) is not widely grown today, and rosé wines made from it are still relatively rare.

What are Shaverde’s goals and brand positioning?

‘We plan to gradually increase production and strengthen the brand’s position on the international market, particularly in Europe,’ says Elene. ‘We are also considering creating new wine lines, including experimental and limited series, which we will present at international wine fairs and festivals, to introduce Shaverde to a wider audience.’

We produce 25,000-30,000 bottles of wine annually from more than 15 grape varieties grown across different microzones, Khashmi Saperavi, Salkhino Ojaleshi, Maghraani Kisi, Lechkhumi Tsolikouri, Mukuzani, and others. Our range includes white, amber, red, and rosé wines, as well as other noteworthy styles, which make Shaverde’s portfolio even more diverse.

Introducing Shaverde wines:

Tsolikouri | A dry white wine made from Tsolikouri grapes grown in Lechkhumi. The wine clearly expresses the unique character of its place of origin. It shows pronounced minerality, with notes of tropical fruit and citrus. Its naturally high acidity brings freshness and structure, resulting in a harmonious, well-balanced palate.

Saperavi Khashmi Oak | A dry red wine. A limited series made from Saperavi grapes grown in the Khashmi microzone. Deep ruby in colour, it shows pronounced varietal aromas and a full, velvety bouquet. Aged in oak barrels, the wine is well-balanced and has a refined, long finish.

Ojaleshi | A dry red wine made from Ojaleshi grapes grown in old vineyards in Martvili. Aged in qvevri, the wine displays aromas of red berries, with notes of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, spice, and smoke.

Kisi Qvevri | A dry amber wine. Made from Kisi grapes grown in the sun-drenched vineyards of Maghraani, this wine shows an amber-golden hue. It offers aromas of ripe yellow fruit, harmoniously blending with delicate notes of dried fruit and spice. The wine clearly expresses the varietal character of Kisi, as well as the distinctive qualities of the terroir where the grapes are grown.

Chinuri-Goruli Mtsvane Oak | A dry white wine with a pale straw hue. It shows fruity, citrus, and delicate floral aromas, complemented by subtle notes of vanilla and oak. The wine has lively acidity and a refined, long finish. It is aged in oak barrels for six months.

Recently, a showroom for the Gulordava family winery has also opened at 20 Gamrekeli Street in Tbilisi - a comfortable space with welcoming hosts. You may be lucky enough to be greeted by the winemaker herself, as she knows the secrets behind Shaverde’s wines better than anyone.